German FAZ: In the land of the last semi-nomads007012

The first twilight gently settles over Keramidi, a village in Thessaly. Everything is asleep, the five streets are deserted. But there has been a lot of activity on the Mokas’ farm since three in the morning because today is the big day. Today is buoyancy. The buoyancy is the highlight of the year. It is the epic of exile and return. Today the Mokas are taking the herd to summer pasture. Today they are leaving the lowlands, their exile, and for the duration of the summer they are returning to the Pindos Mountains, back to their home village of Kalarites, from which they come and with which they, despite the many years that they have already lived in Keramidi, are inextricably linked like an umbilical cord.
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